Spinning (textiles)
From Includipedia, the inclusionist encyclopedia
Spinning is the process of creating yarn (or thread, rope, cable) from various raw fiber materials. In spinning, separate fibers are twisted together to bind them into a long, stronger yarn. Characteristics of the yarn vary based on the material used, fiber length and alignment, quantity of fiber used and degree of twist.
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[edit] Twist and ply
The direction in which the yarn is spun is called twist. Yarns are characterized as Z-twist or S-twist according to the direction of spinning (see diagram). Tightness of twist is measured in TPI (twists per inch or turns per inch)[1]
Two or more spun yarns may be twisted together or plied to form a thicker yarn. Generally, handspun single plies are spun with a Z-twist, and plying is done with an S-twist.[2]
[edit] Plying methods
Yarns can be made of two, three, four, or more plies, or may be used as singles without plying. Two-ply yarn can also be plied from both ends of one long strand of singles using Andean plying, in which the single is first wound around one hand in a specific manner that allows unwinding both ends at once without tangling. Navajo plying is another method of producing a three-ply yarn, in which one strand of singles is looped around itself in a manner similar to crochet and the resulting three parallel strands twisted together. This method is often used to keep colors together on singles dyed in sequential colors. Cabled yarns are usually four-ply yarns made by plying two strands of two-ply yarn together in the direction opposite to the plying direction for the two-ply yarns.
[edit] Handspinning wool
[edit] History
The earliest spinning probably involved simply twisting the fibers in the hand. Later a stick, called a spindle, was used to add the twist and hold the twisted fiber[citation needed]. Later the spinning wheel was developed which allowed continuous and faster yarn production. Early spinning wheels were foot or hand powered.
[edit] Contemporary hand spinning
Hobby or small scale artisan spinners spin their own yarn to control specific yarn qualities and produce yarn that is not widely available commercially, but can be found online and in many local yarn stores. Handspinners also may spin for self-sufficiency, a sense of accomplishment, or a sense of connection to history and the land. In addition, they may take up spinning for its meditative qualities.
Within the recent past, many new spinners have joined into this ancient process, innovating the craft and creating new techniques. From using many new applications of dyeing before spinning, to mixing in random elements (Christmas Garland, eccentric beads, money, etc.) that would not be in a traditional yarn, to creating new techniques like coiling[4], this craft is constantly evolving and shifting.
[edit] Materials
Yarn can be made from a wide variety of materials:
- Plant fibers: cotton, flax (to produce linen), bamboo, ramie, hemp, nettle, raffia, yucca, coconut husk, banana trees, and soy
- Animal fibers: wool, goat (angora, or cashmere goat), rabbit (angora), llama, alpaca, dog, cat, camel, yak, qiviut (from Musk Ox), and silk
- Synthetic fibers fibers: nylon, rayon (derived from wood pulp), acetate, polyester, tencel (derived from wood pulp), and ingeo (derived from corn)
- Mineral fibers: asbestos
[edit] See also
[edit] Notes
- ^ Kadolph, Sara J., ed.: Textiles, 10th edition, Pearson/Prentice-Hall, 2007, ISBN 0-13-118769-4, p. 197
- ^ Plying Yarn with a Spinning Wheel, The Joy of Handspinning
- ^ Woolen, Semi-Woolen, Semi-Worsted, Worsted Spinning
- ^ Toil, Toil, Coils and Bubbles, Knitty Magazine
[edit] Resources
[edit] Books
- Amos, Alden (2001). The Alden Amos Big Book of Handspinning, Loveland, Colorado: Interweave Press. ISBN 1883010888
- Boeger, Alexis (2005). Handspun Revolution, Pluckyfluff. ISBN 0976725207
- Ross, Mabel (1987). Essentials of Handspinning, Robin and Russ Handweavers. ISBN 0950729205
- Simmons, Paula (1982). Spinning for Softness and Speed, Seattle: Madrona. ISBN 0914842870
[edit] Instructional Sites
- A complete spinning website - Learn about Blow room,carding,spinning, Fiber testing, Textile calculations etc
- Hampshire Spinning Guild - glossary of spinning terms, and pictures
- Joy of Hand Spinning - video instruction
- Spin-Off Magazine Spinning Basics - A list of PDF articles from the magazine on various spinning techniques.
- Navajo 3-ply Tutorial - plying video instruction
- Drop Spinning Instructions - step by step from carding to troubleshooting
[edit] External links
- Spinning Guilds Directory - An international list of spinning guilds
- Spinning Links A list of spinning links, including blogs
- Yarn Museum - Online gallery promoting handspun yarn.
[edit] Wool Festivals
- NY State Sheep & Wool Festival - New York State Sheep & Wool Festival
- Maryland Sheep & Wool Festival - Maryland Sheep & Wool Festival; America's largest, with over 60,000 people in attendance each year.
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